Snippets from Life in France - la baguette

What can be more quintessentially French than seeing a baguette tucked under an arm, protruding from a basket or strapped onto the back of a bicycle?  Scrumptious, long, thin, crusty. A challenge for aging gums – so I am told.  

In true French style, the land of red tape has a law governing the ingredients of the authentic baguette dough.  Slight variations are allowed in the length and width of the loaf as well as in the proportions of some of its components. The small dimples on the bottom of the loaves made by the linen on which the dough sits while proving, reassures the purchaser of this infamous loaf that it has been baked by une boulangerie artisinanale.
The baguette as we know it today is a product of the 1920's, descending from a long and proud history of French bread making. Apparently baguettes were created as a result of a new French law which was introduced in 1920, forbidding bakers to start work before 4.00 am. This meant that the traditional, round bread loaves would not be on the boulangerie shelves in time for breakfast. And so the baguette was born.  The baguette's large surface area to volume ratio allows it to be prepared and baked more quickly - ready for the early morning customers. 

The boulangeries are the heart of the community. If, as in our village, there is more than more than one, each boulangerie will have its own loyal band of followers. For the many surrounding small villages and hamlets without a resident baker, a mobile boulanger visits daily announcing his arrival with a “tout, tout” of the van’s horn.

Early risers in our village will see a large white van backed up to the door of the Flourentin boulangerie. Members of the baker’s family scurry to and fro stacking their mobile shop with baskets of baguettes and other artisan-baked delights to sell via the vehicle’s side window. For many the boulangeries serve another important function  -  disseminators of local news and gossip........ Some things never change.

My heart lept when I spied these old mouldy linen-lined baguette baskets at our local vide – grenier. To Mr R’s relief, practicality over-rode emotions so reluctantly they were left on the side of the road for some other purchaser to scoop up and rescue.

The following recipe was given to me from a delightful dame française. Although the ingredients and instructions are simple, there is a definite art for producing an authentique baguette artisanale. Bonne chance!

FRENCH BREAD (2 loaves)



Preparation time: 25 min           

Cooking time: 30 min           

Total time: approximately 180min

        



Ingredients



2 cups warm water 
(40 ⁰ C or 110 ⁰ F )

1 tablespoon of  yeast


1 tablespoon of  sugar


2 teaspoons of  salt


5 cups plain (all-purpose) flour
 


Directions



• ·      Dissolve yeast and sugar in warm water in large bowl.
• ·      Allow yeast to proof or foam (approximately 10 minutes).

• ·      Add 3 cups flour and salt; beat for 2 minutes.

• ·      Stir in 2 cups flour to make a stiff dough.

• ·      Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface until it smooth and elastic (about 8 -10 minutes).

• ·      Place the dough into a greased* bowl, turning the dough to coat all surfaces.
• ·      Cover the dough in the bowl (using plastic film or a damp tea towel) and let it rise until it has doubled in size.

• ·      Punch down the dough then divide it in half.

• ·      Shape dough into two long, thin loaves.

• ·      Grease* and sprinkle with cornmeal.
• ·      Place loaves on a baking sheet  or in pan or a French bread baking tray and make some superficial diagonal cuts on top of the loaves.

• ·      Cover and let rise until each loaf had doubled in size.

• ·      Bake at  190 ⁰ C or 350 ⁰ F for approximately 30 minutes.

• ·      Note: For a very crunchy crust, sprinkle or spray water onto the loaves during baking.
  * Use a pastry brush dipped in butter or a light oil such as grape seed oil

Rillettes to Ring in the New Year

Plans to spend the last few days of 2011 at our country cottage were thwarted by the forecast of high temperatures, hoovering around 40 ⁰C, and hot northerly winds which carry allergens that have our eyes running, noses blocked and sinuses very painful despite taking antihistamines. Mr R is already suffering from hayfever, but it is always much worse north of the Great Dividing range where the cottage to situated. Our main purpose for visiting the cottage was to give it some much needed attention. After the recent wet Spring and summer rains, the grass and shrubbery around the house has gone berserk, hiding the house facade - so much so that our country neighbour contacted us to let us know about this uncharacteristic (for Summer) state of affairs. The weather forecast for next weekend suggests that the conditions will be far more conducive for working in the garden.

So here we sat, in Melbourne, on New Year's eve. It was only the day prior to this when I turned my mind to preparing and shopping for the event.  I had a desire to herald in 2012 eating rillettes and sipping champagne. There already was champagne in the fridge (rather a permanent fixture). However, I had to purchase the ingredients for the rillettes and cook it tout de suite so it had time to rest and infuse its delicate flavours throughout this piquant dish.


Scents and tastes can evoke strong memories. For many Francophiles, the perfume of summer lavender says "Provence" but not for me! This fragrance always reminds me of my grandparents and great aunts. Every time a  closet door was opened, a waft of lavender scent tickled my nose. So comforting.

Rillette on my tongue transposes me to lazy days in the Val de Loire, meandering down country roads, exploring chateaux, sitting in the garden shade, sipping wine, eating rillettes on delicious, fresh bread, whilst listening to the call of doves and watching the sun gradually fade, as if on its own giant  dimmer switch. Francophile heaven.

So to celebrate the promise of a new year - with a little bit France thrown in - here is my much used, pork rillettes  recipe.*  Easy to prepare and oh so miam, miam!          

Recipe: Pork Rillettes

Ingredients (metric measures)

• 750 g pork belly or neck with the rind and bones removed
• 150 g pork back fat (do not reduce the fat......time to forget the cholesterol and calories)
• 100 ml dry white wine (I prefer riesling)
• 3 lightly crushed juniper berries
• 1 teaspoon of sea salt
• 2 teaspoons of dried thyme
• half teaspoon of  ground nutmeg
• quarter teaspoon of allspice
• a pinch of ground cloves
• I large crushed garlic clove

This is best cooked in a heavy cast iron casserole dish such. I use  French enamelled one which is parfait.

Instructions

• Preheat the oven at 140 ⁰C = 275 ⁰F                    
• Cut the pork and the fat into short stripes and place them in the cast iron casserole dish.
• Mix all of the other ingredients with the pork.
• Seal the casserole dish with foil before placing the casserole lid on top of the foil.
• Bake for 4 hours by which time the meat should be soft and surrounded by fat.
• Place a sieve over a bowl, then tip the cooked contents of the casserole into the sieve.
• Shred the pork. (This may be done using 2 forks.)
• Season if necessary.
• Place the meat into a 3 cup terrine or casserole dish and let cool.
• Strain the hot fat through a very fine sieve or damp muslin.
• Pour the pork fat over the cold meat. If the fat has solidified, it will needed to be melted first.
• Cover and refrigerate for up to one week.
• Serve at room temperature ............Bon appétit! 

I raise my champagne glass to you for a healthy and happy 2012 ............ Santé


*FromThe Food of France, a Journey for Food Lovers.            

Gâteau au Chocolat - Recipe with a Twist........gluten free

Nothing would be more tiresome than eating and drinking if God had not made them a pleasure as well as a necessity.  ~Voltaire

Cooking family meals was an expression of my mother’s love for her brood. Savouring it was our acknowledgement of her affection and efforts. As a child, cooking with mother was my way of spending exclusive time with her in a large, male dominated, family. And it provided first rights to licking out any bowls and spoons -  a right savagely guarded amongst 5 siblings. Whipping up a roux, making pastry, sweet, savoury or suet and baking blind was mastered before my age hit double digits. For me cooking is also a method of retreating from daily stressors. The tradition of cooking en masse continued with my daughter, but took a twist when she was diagnosed with celiac disease in her late teens. Cooking and my beloved Tante Marie now provide new challenges.
Subscribing to the notion that  Nine out of ten people like chocolate. The tenth person always lies. (John Q. Tullius), here is my gluten free version of a French chocolate gateau, or as my daughter calls it........

Miam Gâteau au Chocolat - gluten free....easy & delish

Ingredients
* 135g unsalted butter
* 3/4 (three-quarters) cup castor sugar
* 6 very large eggs, separated (if eggs are too small the cake will be dry)
* 150g grated good quality 85% dark chocolate (Lindt)
* 2 cups of home ground almond meal (process silvered almonds - bought almond meal is too dry)
* 1/3 (third) cup of dry rice crumbs (purchased in a packet at the supermarket) 
* pinch of salt added to the rice crumbs
* 1 tablespoon of dark rum
* additional 90g dark chocolate (for cake topping)
* additional 30g butter (for cake topping)

Method
* turn on the oven to moderate
* line a 20 cm round cake pan with greaseproof paper (pan must be at least 6 cm in depth)
* cream sugar and butter until light in colour and texture (an electric beater is best)
* add egg yolks one by one, beating well after each egg is added
   stir in the almond meal, rice crumbs and grated chocolate (a large bowl may need to be used)
* fold the chocolate-almond mixture though the egg whites in 3 lots
* carefully pour the mixture into the lined cake pan and bake in the moderate oven for 50   minutes (test the cake with a cake skewer before removing from the oven)
* let cake sit in the pan for at least 5 minutes before placing on a wire   rack to cool
* when cold remove the paper lining and spread with the topping
Topping
* melt the additional 90g chocolate and 30g butter in a bowl over hot water
* let the mixture cool to a spreading consistency before covering the top   of the cake.
Slice thinly and serve with cream if desired
Note: 
1. creaming of the butter and sugar is best done in a smaller bowl
2. the cake will be dry if you use smaller eggs and the quantity of the freshly ground almond meal is less than 2 full cups

A Touch of France : Crème Brûlée and the Child Within.

For most people, a secure childhood is crucial for well-being and success as one pupates into adulthood. Our entrenched behaviours often mimic that of our parents. Keeping with this observation I should be “looking good”, but sadly I have inherited a disproportionate number of my parents rogue genes which have overridden much of my environmental influences. One could say that I’m the “black sheep of the family” - definitely a product of nature and not nurture

My childhood was simple, rhythmic, and comfortably predictable; full of laughter and crammed with low cost, high return activities (CFO* heaven) – mud pies, biking adventures, catching yabbies, fishing, reading, being read to, camping, bush walking, playing cards in front of an open fire, endless concerts (for which I was the producer, director, choreographer and "star"), cooking with mother and eating at our expansive dining table, usually with an additional guest or two............Idyllic.

Of course there were challenges, emotional and physical, but they made us stronger and fade into the past, tempered by a “balanced life”.

The smell and taste of specific foods evoke strong memories of childhood and a feeling of security, despite my age. Just a waft of cooking toffee or true vanilla custard carries me back in time.

Still catching yabbies
.......with my nephew

Cooking family meals was an expression of my mother’s love for her brood. Our food was often a multicultural affair - accompanied by an appropriate wine on Saturday evenings. Special occasions called for mother’s revered Tante Marie, her kitchen bible, to be opened. Thus crème brûlée has become one of my favourite adult “comfort foods” in which I take refuge in times of stress and delight in time of repose. Savouring it is a sensual experience - a glistening toffee hat on rich creamy custard with a hint of vanilla…..soft and smooth against brittle toffee that emits cranial echoes on shattering in the mouth. Bliss in a bowl! 

A trail of empty crème brûlée dishes chronicled my last journey around France.............Delish. 

So for a touch of France, here is my crème brûlée recipe adapted from The Food of France, a Journey for Food Lovers. The orange flower water adds a subtle layer to the much revered recipe from mother’s beloved Tante Marie.                                                                    

Crème Brûlée Recipe 

Ingredients (metric measures)

2 cups double cream

¾ cup full cream milk

½ cup of castor sugar (superfine sugar)

1 good vanilla pod

5 egg yolks (from large eggs)

1 egg white (from a large egg)

I tablespoon of orange flower water

½ cup Demerara sugar

Collect 8 ½ cup ramekins and a roasting dish in which they may sit.

Mixing

Preheat the oven to 120⁰ C

Mix together the egg yolks, egg white and ¼ cup of castor sugar.

Put the cream, milk, ¼ cup of castor sugar and vanilla pod into a saucepan and bring just to boiling point, but do not boil.

Strain the boiling milk mixture into the egg mixture while whisking and continue to whisk well, then add the orange flower mixture and stir. The custard mixture is now complete.

Cooking and Storing

Divide the custard mixture evenly amongst the 8 ramekins.

Place the ramekins into the roasting pan.

Carefully pour hot water into the pan until it comes half way up the sides of the ramekins.

Cook the custards in the oven for 1 ½ hours or until they are cooked in the centre.

When cooked, cool the ramekins and refrigerate them until needed.  Before eating allow time for then to come to room temperature.

Completing prior to serving

Sprinkle the top of the custards with the Demerara sugar and caramelise until very hot. This can be done by placing the pots under the griller (broiler) or with a blowtorch. Watch carefully to avoid burning the sugar............Bon appétit! 

And my first dessert to be cooked and savoured in My French Folly?  Crème Brûlée!

*CFO – chief financial officer